FTZ adapter aperture lever close-up

My F mount 300mm missed the stop screw so long story short, the 300mm destroyed the FTZ adapter aperture lever.  since I don't have a spare one or find any picture online I ask if any member can share what a normal lever would look like?  My other F mount cameras have the lever but they are spring loaded.  The FTZ one is motor driven and I believe they aren't the same or how they are installed.   Any close up of it with or dissembled from the adapter is greatly appreciated.  In an attempt to fix it I might have straightened it too much so it doesn't actually work.

With this aperture lever missing, all the AF-S would work somewhat but at the min aperture, f/22 or whatever the smallest and extreme HI ISO as a result.

I should have said it's a FTZ II adapter

Fix your lens stop-screw and go and buy a new/second hand FTZ II. 😉

Which 300mm lens and Z body are you using?

PS. Main reason for a new FTZ is I'd hate to see the re-bent and re-straightened aperture lever shear off and go into the camera body cavity and either trash the shutter and/or IBIS. 

You might even jam the knackered FTZ to the body permanently!

Fixing that would be many, many times the cost of a new FTZ.

😉

NIKON NIKKOR 300MM AF-S 2.8 D II the lightest version as far as I know.  It's apparently a used one, I wasn't aware of the stop screw even I am a long time F mount user so that's very very embarrassing.  It kind of happened before but it was OK with the F mount D4s, perhaps the metal wasn't that soft or it wasn't much torque I used.  In normal circumstances, I hold the lens and twist to mount and unmount but since the 300mm is kind of big so I twist the body and my brain couldn't quite adjust so it jammed when it was twisted in the opposite direction and w/out the stop screw to stop it from happening.  I have "fixed" or experimented with fixing some Nikkor lenses but never curious enough to know what that little screw does.  I paid $250 for this lesson 

It is a Z 9.

On old manual, non-G setups, that lever is essentially binary.  When viewing, it's all the way open and then some, with a spring allowing for some error, and when shooting, it's all the way out of the way,  not even in contact with the lens. So even a slightly bent one may continue to work. But I once made the mistake of mounting a used lens without that little screw on an old F, and it was a lesson learned.  I was able to take the back off and disentangle it,  and on the F it's made of brass which you can unbend.  But of course on a digital camera with no back it's a different story.  So I'm careful to check any old lens before I use it now.