How accurate are Canon EOS 3's Metering Modes?

I've recently gotten a Canon EOS 3 (to replace my old APS EOS IX).

Now that i'm getting to be a pretty decent photographer, i've started

to read about light meters.

 

With technology today in these cameras, is a light meter necessary?

I've started playing with all the modes - spot metering, evaluated,

multi-spot averaging, etc...

 

If I know what part of the scene I want to be exposed properly, can I

just use the Canon's built-in meter? In today's day and age, is it

still necessary to have a Light Meter.

 

Thanks!

if you're asking about an ambiant light meter, than my answer would be no, there is no need for it. I use 2 EOS3 bodies, always in spot meter mode, and I'm very pleased with the reasults. of course, you have to do the right compensating, since the meter will try to make the image 18% grey, but the camera meter is a good starting point to figuering out the right exposure.

 

matan

The EOS 3, mine included, had/has meter problems. You may have to use a hand held meter to "calibrate" your camera's meter and then use one of the special functions to set the meter so it'll work accurately. Fergzample, when I use my hand held meter to read the light reflected off my back patio concrete I find that the camera wants to underexpose that subject by about 2.5 F stops. SO, I have to set the film ISO using a special function to make the camera's meter give me a proper exposure. Its easier to do than to explain.

For shooting chromes, My EOS 3's (Sept 1999) meter is extremely accurate. The Evaluative pattern nails it 90% of the time. In difficult lighting situations, e.g., strong backlighting, predominantly light or dark scenes, etc., I use spot metering or AE comp.

 

If you're shooting print film, exposure isn't nearly as critical as chromes. However, the main variable in print quality will be the skill of your lab, not your meter.

Walter, it must be something wrong with your specific sample.

 

My 1998 EOS, after recalibration (it suffered the initial 2/3rds under problem), is extremely accurate, bordering on slight overexposure (to the tune of around 1/4 - 1/3rd stop). It handles difficult situations very well, unlike my D30.

My 3 is staggeringly accurate. I've a selection of alternative meters for other cameras, but I wouldn't dream of using them with the 3 - simply not needed. I originally bought the camera for its multi-spot metering, but I've hardly used it - the evaluative metering does such a good job. Straight spot metering gets some use, though.

It is really excellent.

I shoot slides and the EOS 3 gave me great results in any kind of situation. I mainly use Evaluative, but the multi-spot is great and there is an other mode (I forgot the name... Evaluative-matrix-Spot blabla...something) that Canon recommends for backlite subject that I have tried with great success.

Compared to the EOS 5, Canon has really improved its metering system and added great features, very useful.

A Gray card is a great addition too.

Steph-

Mmmm...

 

I think my idiot-proof A2E/EOS 5 was no better or worse than my sample of the EOS 3 using multizone evaluative metering, though the EOS 3 is MUCH better with a Speedlite (eg using preferred manual settings within flash parameters for a given film speed and relying on OTF to quench the flash) and its spot-metering capabilities, including multiple spot, are fairly awesome.

 

Roll on the alleged EOS 3N, with magnetic palm cover, v/finder shutter, magnesium alloy body and a lightweight VG10-type grip sans motor. More wishful thinking on my part I think!

EOS 3 is horrible when it comes to E-TTL FLASH metering. My old EOS 3 showed all-over-places flash exposures when I shot SLIDES. Way off flash exposures always surprised me even when FEL was used.

 

Compared to 3D matrix flash metering of Nikon system I owned, I almost gave up in Canon flash.

 

The fix to the problem is EOS 1v. It is an excellent machine for the job as I have see huge improvement since I traded my EOS 3 for it. I've got very decent flash exposure accuracy from EOS 30 (Elan 7E) too.

I disagree with Kitipong

 

Using E-TTL outdoors for fill-flash is incredibly good, though best to shoot some sample shots and using flash comp, according to your tastes - this would vary with background, ambient lighting and camera-to-subject distance.

 

The EOS 3 is like a woman: it's reliable and loyal, provided you press the right buttons and keep her happy.

Anthony,

 

I was talking about problems I encountered in INDOOR event shooting, which I always shoot in Av mode with flash. I understand FEC as I have experimented and fine-tuned it. Generally, I apply -1 stop FEC for shoot outdoor, +0.3 stop for indoor, and tweak further in conplex lights.

 

Fill-in flash for outdoor isn't much of the issue as -1 FEC would have little effect on overall exposures, as I'm considering omitting FEL for outdoor shooting, especially when time is critical. The problem of EOS 3 flash exposure isn't how much (FEC), but how repeatable/reliable (accurate) the exposure is.

 

Of cousre, I understand E-TTL operation as I have read E-TTL realated articles, inclulding NK Guy's website. Frankly speaking, I found it's hopeless when I couldn't command E-TTL to work as I want in real life situations even after apprehening E-TTL theories.

 

I used to own 2 systems, Nikon and Canon, and I always switched (from EOS 3) to Nikon (F100 + SB28) when I had to swear by flash. At that time, I really lacked of confidence in Canon's E-TTL. Until I got EOS 30 (Elan 7E), then I started to build trust in Canon's flash. After getting relatively consistent flash exposure from EOS 30 for sometime, I traded my EOS 3 for EOS 1v and my faith in E-TTL has been further strengthened.

 

I switched to Canon completely (sold my Nikon system) after one year of acquiring EOS 1v.

Anthony,

 

Shoot some INDOOR events with CHROMES, EOS 3 + flash in E-TTL, and the truth will be revealed.

 

Good Luck.

As with anything you have to play around and adapt to the modes, no two metering systems are going to provide the exact same light levels, there are simply too many variables, especially at the 1% spot meter range.

 

The Eos 3 gives you the multi spot metering facility that alows you to spot meter the important areas to correctly expose. you wil visually see the differences and accomodate for that in your final choice.

 

Shooting in program mode is not possibly the best to do until you have reached a point where you are happy with the meters readings and accommmodated for any personal differences in the exposure compensation setting.

Iso speed ratings on your film can make a difference to various readings on the film and its interpretation to your meter bare that in mind.

 

As for getting a light meter, get one that can record incident light because obviously an slr light meter reads reflected light then you have the best of both worlds.

 

As for flash metering, its pretty darn good, but comes into its own when you are using two or three speed lights and a slave trigger.

 

Lenses also make a huge difference I would invest in an appropriate L lens for my use of photography before moving up to the 1v

 

G