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Showing results for tags 'fix'.
Found 15 results
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There is a little wobble in the lens barrel and when I shutter fires I noticed the lens moves horizontally either to the right or to the left. I tested it after this problem and found out serious shakes on 1/250s shutter speed and lower. Anyone experienced this problem with their rollei? Any idea how to fix it? Many thanks!
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I recently purchased this Yashica T3 camera in almost mint condition for more or less current market value. The previous and only owner said they literally only used it once. I popped in a roll, began to shoot, but after about 5 frames with perfect operation, I noticed that the after the 6th shot, one of the camera aperture blades seems to have gotten stuck. I tried to shake the camera while pressing the shutter in order to see if I could get the blade to be released but it has not worked. Does anyone have any ideas on how to fix this without a crazy complex disassembly (the shutter assembly seems very difficult to get to - A repair manual can be downloaded here: MEGA)?
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Hi Everyone, I am sadly in the depths of repair hell so any help would be great. I have no experience with camera repair beyond being a mechanical engineer and mechanism designer. Thus I thought I would be able to tackle this challenge. However I am very stuck. Background: I bought a Minox 35 ML in great condition but the aperture ring would not turn past 4 to get to the other numbers up to 16. I was only able to spin it from P to somewhere between 2.8 and 4. I found a posting on here from 2003 that made it seem very simple, essentially just loosen 3 screws and tighten a few others. How to repair defective aperture on Minox 35 MB? When I loosened the 3 screws, I then removed what I believe is the focus ring and then the next 3 screws (two are large black screws and one is a set screw that is brass) all seemed very tight. At this point I realized that I could hear various things shaking around as if there were loose screws in the aperture ring assembly. I loosened all 3 screws and was able to lift the aperture ring assembly off the rest of the camera. This is where it gets bad. 4 things immediately fell out of the aperture assembly, 1 white plastic piece, 2 tiny black screws and 1 tiny brass cylinder. I don't know where they came from except that they came from the aperture ring assembly. I want to put everything back together but I don't know how :( I was using the original German repair manual for a diagram but even for me it is too complex to understand. I have uploaded a photo of the relevant diagram but you can download the pdf here: https://learncamerarepair.com/downloads/pdf/Minox-35ML-Repair-Manual.pdf Please help. If you need more photo or details please let me know.
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Hi there OK I know this isn't the best or proper Leica in many respects but I have a mini-zoom point and shoot and love it. Its a little slow and obviously a very low level Leica, probably the lowest but still I love it and photo quality is quite good I think for a point and shoot, don't judge me haha. Anyhow I got it relatively cheap a while ago. Annoyingly I see a common issue according to this thread is that they can be prone to the odd light leak, a ring in the top right corner if look at a photo taken in landscape or bottom (see photo examples in linked thread). They sometimes are there, maybe sometimes not. can anyone help me work out what might be causing it and if theres a fix. Theres very little info on it and people do seem to want to know so be great for me and the rest of us poor mini-zoom owners to see if theres much we can do about it. I read it could be due to a gear-wheel of the zoom which causes a reflection or light leak that reflects on the photo. Is that possible? and if so anything to be done about it? Any help much appreciated with this mystery.
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Hey all. I have a handsome Leica III (IIIa?) that I originally bought with a 5cm Canon Serenar 3.5 collapsible. I would like to use it, except it's got this: I want to say it's condensation? You can see the droplets if you look closely. It's within the inside rear element, as when I look in the front element the aperture blades visually look clear. I have seen that some people with more modern lenses can sit them in the sun to clear them up, but this has been there for a long while now. Is this maybe oil? Water? Something else? Can I put the lens under a bright, hot lamp and mimic the sun? Up here in the northwest it's gonna be rainy for the next 9 months I'm sure lol. Thank you!
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Hey everyone, I am looking to fix all three of my Kodak Ektagraphic AF-2 projector which is suffering from the common slide tray wont advance problem for an installation piece I am trying to create. As much as I'd love to buy the pieces straight out for $30 a set I am seeking a different way to fix it. Does anyone happen to have the extra pieces on hand and would be able to measure them or have the exact dimensions of the pieces already written down? My plan is to render each of the pieces then 3d print them because I have access to a 3d printer through my University. If I am able to get the dimensions for the pieces Id love to share the files with everyone so that they would have access to also printing these parts for cheap since they are so outrageously overpriced on Amazon and other websites. Thanks for all yalls time, I am also open to other suggestions if anyone else has a better idea on how to fix this for cheap. Bellow is the pdf link to the missing pieces. http://www.cfargo.com/pdf/kodak/kodak_carousel_link_replacement.pdf
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Hi guys, So being the frantic person I am, I forced the A and M switch on my Super Takumar 28mm f3.5 lens (otherwise in immaculate condition) and now it doesn’t stay locked in A when off a camera body. It works as it should on my Spotmatic, whether in M or A (aperture closes when shot). My question is this - what exactly did I break in the lens mechanism that prevents it from switching when not on a body? Is it worth taking apart to fix? I’m wondering if it’s a piece of metal that I bent or if it’s a plastic tab (if so, would it affect anything or should I remove it?) Any insight would be appreciated. Thank you
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Hello everyone, I bought a used 35 Minolta XGM for 50 bucks and noticed that the shutter curtain sometimes open half causing my photos to become half black. This occurs about once every 5 shutter click. Any ways to fix this problem? I called a camera store and they want to charge me 120 bucks for it.
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Yesterday i found out that my Pentax 6x7 got some problems with slow shutter speeds from 1/125 and over, the shutter and the mirror stucks open forever. Like this: So i found a not so well explained solution online and this is my guide: 1- Gently remove the leather from the left side (the side with the 6x7 print) 2- Uscrew the 2 circled screws DO NOT UNSCREW THE THIRD. 3- Unscrew the two circled screws inside the focusing screen zone 4-Gently remove the piece by pushing it up and forward 5- Unscrew the two screws 6- Remove the piece 7- Cock the shutter, remove the battery and shot to open the contact of the magnet and clean it easier. 8- Clean the contacts with a small tissue paper wet with some contact cleaning detergent sticked to a thin screwdriver to reach every zone. 9- Test 10- Close everything 11- Stick back the leather This would solve your problem, hope that helps! -
Last night I did a teardown on a Minox model B I just got on Ebay and I decided to do a video so people can see what getting into one is like firsthand. Camera turned out to have crushed shutter blades. 4 parts, 1 hour total part 1: part 2: part 3: part 4:
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Hi all, I have the Mamiya Press 127mm f4.7 and it's developed a bit of oil on the shutter blades. Shutter speeds are still good, but I want to get at it and clean it before it gets worse. I've gotten the front element off but I cant get the next element below it. I've tried rubber grip tools to no avail and I don't see any catch for the spanner wrench. I've also tried screwing the whole front piece off with my hands, but it won't budge. I'm certain I've done this before, but maybe it was with an older model. This is the newer one, all black, and it doesn't "collapse." Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated. -
Hello, I just dug up an Icarex 35S BM from my German granpa's attic and everything seems to work fine but the battery cover is broken. I want to 3D print a new battery cover but I can't find information on what this cover looks like. All I have are small broken pieces of the cover. I can draw and print it at my school but I need a reference to know what to draw! If you have one I would be very appreciated if you could post photos so I have something to refer to. I need as much detail as possible, a couple close up photos should be enough. Thanks in advance, it is what I chose to keep as a souvenir from him so I hope I can fix it up. *In the photo is the space for the battery and the two broken pieces of the battery cover that I have
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Hey guys, New here, just got a d3300 as my first dslr a little while back. Have some experience with older Cannons but I'm loving this thing as my first camera that I own. One little issue. A crummy MicroSD card adapter I borrowed buggered up the pins in the SD card slot. I'm trying to take it apart right now to get in there, but I can't quite get it all the way apart. I have one screw under the strap bar that I can't get to with the strap bar in there. But I also can't quite figure out how to get the strap bar out. I believe I have all the other screws out, but I can't find a disassembly guide for the D3300 anywhere. Frustrating going at this blind, but I've fixed plenty of other equipment before, this one should be easy as long as I can get it apart. Any one got some helpful advice? Thanks
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So I was given an Olympus OM1 by a friend. He 'curiously' took a couple of bits apart, not entirely sure why. He didn't seem to fussed about the camera, and stupidly took the front element off, the lens mount, and the shutter speed ring as well... Basically he bodged it. So now the shutter speed ring doesn't turn, and obviously isn't calibrated. He doesn't know what shutter speed it was on before or after, but I assume the whole mech wasn't kept as it was previously. I have taken this in to a repair place, who said they'd fix it and service it for about £200. I don't mind paying that, if there's absolutely no way I can do the fix myself. Any ideas, websites, guides etc that could help me recalibrate the shutter speed mech? Thanks
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My RZ has developed a problem where it wont fully fire the shutter. The mirror will flip up and the shutter will shut allowing the aperture to get to its proper size but then it doesnt re open allowing the light to hit the film. I removed the front plastic cover from the mount and if I slightly apply pressure to the gear at the bottom responsible for moving the bayonets it will then finish the way its supposed too. Its also random sometimes it works perfectly 10 times sometimes I cant get it to fire properly 10 times. Do the gears need to be lubed or is there a spring that needs to be tightened. I tested it with two different lenses to make sure it wasnt the lens. Not sure if there if anyone else has had this issue but I thought Id ask. I can provide a video if it is helpful.
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