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Showing results for tags 'slr'.
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Hi everyone, By means of introduction, my photography journey has been as follows: 1990-2000 - Canon AE-1, A1, 35mm film SLRs, which I adored 2005-2015 - Nikon Professional full frame DSLRs with the amazing ‘holy trinity’ of lenses (14-24mm f/2.8, 24-70mm f/2.8, 70-200mm f/2.8) which felt so technically perfect that you wondered whether you were controlling the camera or the camera was controlling you 2015-2023 - Leica M3, Leica MP film rangefinders, beautiful in their own way, but never enjoyed them as much as SLRs All have been eventually sold. Next I’m looking for a film SLR - and I’m considering either: Canon F-1N (i.e. the third generation of F-1, after the F-1 and F-1n) Nikon FM3a Both very different cameras, but unique in their own way. The F1-N, the pinnacle of Canon professional film SLRs, with tank like construction. The FM3a, the last ever Nikon film SLR. Both are mechanically quite complex with (different types of) hybrid mechanical/electronic shutters. Is one going to be more of a problem to own when it comes to longevity, complexity of repair etc.? Is one much nicer to use than the other? Has anyone used both regularly who can offer some ideas? Of course, the answer is to buy both, but in that case, which one should I aim for first? Thank you, and I appreciate your advice!
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THE LYTCH-GATE ENTRANCE TO FARRINGDON CHURCH -
zenit b russian slr BASINGSTOKE CANAL, ODIHAM LIFT BRIDGE
david_robinson7 posted a gallery image in Black and White
HYDRAULIC LIFT BRIDGE OVER THE OLD BASINGSTOKE CANAL -
Exposure Date: 2012:06:26 20:31:25; Make: SAMSUNG; Model: SAMSUNG-SGH-I777; ExposureTime: 1/40 s; FNumber: f/2; ISOSpeedRatings: 64; ExposureProgram: Aperture priority; ExposureBiasValue: 0/100; MeteringMode: CenterWeightedAverage; Flash: Flash did not fire, compulsory flash mode; FocalLength: 3 mm; Software: I777UCKK6; -
Exposure Date: 2012:02:23 18:05:30; Make: SAMSUNG; Model: SAMSUNG-SGH-I777; ExposureTime: 1/15 s; FNumber: f/2; ISOSpeedRatings: 250; ExposureProgram: Aperture priority; ExposureBiasValue: 0/100; MeteringMode: CenterWeightedAverage; Flash: Flash did not fire, compulsory flash mode; FocalLength: 3 mm; Software: I777UCKK6; -
From time to time I enjoy browsing through sales brochures for old cameras. They can be an interesting time capsule. I was searching today to see if I could find one for the Minolta Dimage RD 3000. The closest I could get to finding something was this page, archived at the Internet Archive... https://web.archive.org/web/20020701051929/http://www.minoltaeurope.com:80/cgi-bin/db4web_c/db/minoeu/digital/literature_stage.d4w?Language=english&Product=Dim%e2ge_RD_3000 So it seems Minolta did make a PDF sales brochure available for download, but I can't find it online now. I don't suppose anyone here has a copy of this? -
Not sure if this is the right sub-form to post this - sorry in advance if I got it wrong! I am experiencing issues with the meter on my Minolta X-570. It seems to be metering at an aperture between f/11 and f/16 and is locked onto that setting. Adjusting the aperture does not change the suggested shutter speed shown in the viewfinder. However, once the depth of field preview button is pressed down the meter appears to take into account the current aperture setting and the suggested shutter speed changes. I am using a 2nd generation MD Rokkor 50mm f/1.4 lens (without the aperture lock). This happened out of the blue - I'm not sure if there's a setting I missed or if it is an issue with the capacitor. The camera was recently purchased but I previously shot two rolls and didn't remember encountering such an issue. Grateful if someone could shed some light on the problem. Many thanks!
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Konica Autoreflex T SLR (First Version) Problems
ricku posted a topic in Classic Manual Film Cameras
My Autoreflex T does not advance and the shutter button fully depresses down, but does not fire the shutter. I have tried releasing the wind-lock and advancing the film lever many times and it still does not work. I have taken out the mirror box to replace a corroded wire to fix the light meter. When putting back the mirror box the shutter works completely and film advance lever works, but upon tightening the screws for the mirror box to the body, the shutter just does not work. Also, how can I fix my lens mount to be able to focus to infinity again? I shook the camera once and some lens mount washers fell out. Any help is much appreciated! Thanks. -
I picked up an old Nikon EM lens at a fle market to put on the bookcase. Recently, (because I could!) I attached it to the body of my D3100. Fits fine, and on manual the body accepts it. When I press the shutter it goes click as it should, but the mirror doesn't move so I get a lovely black image! There's a setting for keeping the mirror up which I've tried, but click and still no cigar (you rase the mirror and complete the action by switching the camera off ~ wierd). Anybody got any ideas how I can give the old fella its occasional day in the sun? thanks! Cyril
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An excellent Nikon F6. Nikon's most advanced SLR. The internally stored shooting data can be downloaded with and embedded into scanned jpgs with Meta35. Locate in Houston, TX, Please PM if interested. Thank you.
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Hey everyone, So one of my grandfathers passed away earlier on this year. He was super interested in astronomy to the point of building his own observatory from scratch - including telescope - and due to myself investing a lot of time into photography as firstly a hobby before spending some time in a more intense environment as a studio photographer I was given two of his cameras that he kept, both in pretty good condition. One is a Praktica Super TL with the original leather casing - it has a Meyer-Optik Görlitz Oreston 50mm f/1.8 lens on it and in a separate bag, a Dimension brand 223mm f=2.8 lens. The other is Minolta X-370 with a gorgeous Tamron 28-200mm f/3.8-5.6 lens popped on and a Vivitar Auto Thyristor 550FD flash tucked in the corner of the camera bag. There was also a couple rolls of 400 35mm film of which I'm not too sure how old (or new, haha) they all are and neither of them have batteries. The problem is... whilst I am familiar with basic stuff like "the exposure triangle" and I've handled modern SLR's on a few occasions before, I am a little bit out of the water when it comes to film cameras! I've done a ton of research on batteries and because the Praktica magnesium battery isn't the best to find, I'm debating in between 625A and 357 to tide me over before I drop a chunk of money on the CRIS MR9 adaptor. I live in relatively small town so even if I was to want it re-calibrated for a 1.5 or 1.55v I don't think there's anyone who would be able to do it nearby and I don't know if I feel comfortable doing it myself. The Minolta was pretty straight forward... everyone who I've read seems to have good experience using the SR44 batteries so that seems to be the way to go. In terms of film, everyone seems to have their own favourites but with the places I shoot in and the subjects I like, I was thinking about buying a couple of rolls of 200 35mm from Amazon or something but I would love to hear people's opinions about what kinds of film they like, the whole battery situation, or what some favourite subjects to capture with these two are. :) Thanks in advance, and sorry for the lengthy post :D -
Hi there. I'm new to 35mm film and keep having the same problem when I try to work with colour film. I use a Canon AE1. The particular film used here was Fuji Superia 200. I was wondering if someone could help me out and tell me what I'm doing wrong :) Thank you!
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I just bought a Canon AE-1 - my first analog camera, yay - and I'am shooting my first roll of film. I'm in the middle of a roll right now and I've noticed something that's worrying me. When I wind the film on, the rewind knob is meant to turn as well, right? So, what I've noticed is that, sometimes, the knob don't complete its turn. Instead of the normal +-180º turn, it only goes halfway. I've already checked if the rewind button was pressed and tried turning the knob clockwise to give some tension to the film, but it seems to be random. Anyway, the exposures counter keeps advancing normally since the beginning of the roll. Should I be worried about the photos being overlap?
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hey everyone! I was shooting some portraits in bright sunny conditions and noticed I was getting the typical sunny 16 happening. Foolishly using ISO 400 I was getting aperture measurements of f/22 and f/16 and so on. I want to get shallower depth of field, so of course I figured to now get an ND filter. Then I realized I might have a tough time focusing. What are your experiences when using an ND filter on hasselblads or other SLR's? If I'm doing handheld portrait shooting, do I get my focus and then slap on the filter? I feel that I may lose the focus on what I want, but I guess if I get like a 3-stop filter it will at least bring me down from f/16 to like 5.6 which is much better of course and I guess I could still get most in focus while blurring the background.
