Richard Williams

The F65/N65 is also compatible with G (and AF-S and VR).

You can still get the old free versions from Google's site without registering with DxO. They've removed the documentation, but not the downloads: http://dl.google.com/edgedl/photos/nikcollection-full-1.2.11.exe http://dl.google.com/edgedl/photos/nikcollection-full-1.2.11.dmg

I'm wondering when they'll kill off CS6 reinstallation altogether. They've already 'retired' the activation servers for CS3, and unless you registered for the special installer that doesn't need activation when they offered it (quietly, and for a short period) reinstallation is no longer possible, even if you bought the $2000 Master Collection.

Could it be a Roman 900mm lens?

If they are under 40 years old, you should have quite a choice of Nikon dSLRs - the key transition from pre-AI to AI happened in the late 70s. To tell these lenses apart, take a look at this page (I don't always rate Ken Rockwell's stuff, but he is solid on this): Nikkor Lens Technology If you do have pre-AI lenses (and they haven't been converted to AI), the Df is the only properly compatible Nikon dSLR option, but it's rather expensive and may now be discontinued. For AI and later, you might look first at one of the other full-frame (FX) bodies, such as the D750 or a secondhand D800, D810 or D610 (the current D780 and D850 would work well, but are quite a bit more expensive). These bodies will meter with older lenses, and will autofocus if any of them are AF (even the older 'screwdriver' system that requires an AF motor in the camera body) The crop-sensor (DX) bodies will also work, but reduce the angle of view for each lens. The cheaper ones won't meter with older lenses, and most of these also won't autofocus with 'screwdriver' AF/AF-D lenses.

I'd choose the F100 over any other Nikon film camera except (probably) the F6 (the F5 is too much of a tank). Most of the advantages have already been mentioned. It has the two dial interface that began with the F5 and continues in the dSLRs. VR and G lenses are fully compatible, so it's easier to share glass with a dSLR. You have 5 AF points (all 3 horizontal points are cross-type) and the AF works very well (even today, it's no slouch). The rubber can get sticky, though it doesn't turn into goo like the coating on the back of the F90/N90 can. But its Achilles heel is that plastic door catch. If it breaks, the whole back has to be replaced, and is no longer available as a spare unless you can find one secondhand or pick up the otherwise largely useless MF-29 data back. I've read about a talented repairer fabricating a metal catch like it should have had in the first place, but that's not a service that's commonly available.

You can see it here: https://d1ro734fq21xhf.cloudfront.net/attachments/00Dpih-26026984.jpg and in several images on this page: elrectanguloenlamano: ROBERT CAPA´S FIRST LEICA SOLD DURING THE HISTORICAL 22ND WESTLICHT CAMERA AUCTION It can be pretty hard to read:

How about a smaller and more realistic volume of water and some controls? You could try box + rice vs box without rice vs open air, see how much water is left in each case, then write it up for publication in a journal that accepts frivolous research in the Christmas issue. Might even have a shot at the Ig Nobel for physics.

I think that used to be the case, but I haven't seen a cheap T3 for a long time (some have gone for £140 to an eye-watering £250 on ebay in recent months). People even want silly money for the unremarkable T Zoom because of the Zeiss name and the 'T4 halo'.

One fixed focal length P&S that performs very well and is still available relatively cheaply is the Canon Sure Shot Supreme: SURE SHOT SUPREME - Canon Camera Museum A couple of years ago you could get one for the price of film and processing, though they're about double that today on ebay. But it's still a bargain compared to something like a Yashica T4 (with similar performance). The curvy styling is very 80s, which I like to think of as retro cool. It takes one of those slightly obscure lithium batteries that are fortunately still in production, in a cunningly concealed compartment you need a screwdriver to open. As it's lithium, even an ancient battery probably hasn't corroded and trashed the electronics. There's a fiddly button on the base you have to hold in if you want to turn off the automatic flash in low light, and if you get the original strap it has an even fliddlier cap you can use to block the flash sensor to force it to fire in bright light. But these questionable design choices are more than made up for by a sharp 4 element 38mm f/2.8 lens you can pre-focus with a half press of the shutter release, and the autoexposure does a good job.

As Mike suggests, you should now try to dry this as thoroughly as possible. Leaving any residual moisture in the lens is just asking for fungus.

Don't be silly, Vincent.

Another reason to avoid the 50mm AF-S lenses on this body is that they are G lenses (i.e., they lack aperture rings). Neither your camera nor the N90/F90 can manually control the aperture on these lenses, so you'd be stuck at minimum aperture in M and A modes. If you buy more lenses in future, you also need to avoid AF-P (won't focus at all, even manually) and electronic aperture 'E' lenses (no aperture control).

The AF-S is reportedly a bit sharper wide open, and you get circular out of focus highlights and silent focusing. It's compatible with all Nikon dSLRs, the later AF film SLRs that have command dials for aperture control, and the Z adapter (I'd be very surprised if there's ever a screwdriver AF Z adapter). However, the AF-D is smaller, has less distortion, and is compatible with all the film SLRs as well as the dSLRs with screwdriver AF (which excludes some low-end bodies). Out of focus highlights are circular wide open, but become heptagonal when you stop down a bit. Contrary to some of the suggestions above, comparative reviews report the AF-D focuses significantly faster: Nikon 50mm f/1.4G Review Nikon 50mm AF-S vs AF-D Nikon 50mm f/1.4G AF-S Nikkor Review Focus speed testing - Nikon 50mm lenses (D vs G) https://www.dpreview.com/reviews/nikon-50-1p4g-n15

So there are 3 different serial numbers, or do 2 of them match? The electronic serial number is the only one that can't be tampered with, and so is the most reliable. It has nothing to do with Adobe - take an image straight off the media card without using Lightroom and upload it to: Jeffrey Friedl's Image Metadata Viewer and you should see the same number in the 'Serial Number' field under MakerNotes (MakerNotes are metadata fields specific to a camera manufacturer - here Nikon is reponsible for them, not any third party). But perhaps the Nikon rep just doesn't want to endorse the output of a program that isn't under Nikon's control. In theory, third party software could be reading the serial number incorrectly (though that's extremely unlikely).